Ramla l-Ħamra, the Red Sandy Bay, is the largest sandy beach in Gozo and, for most people who know both islands, the best beach in Malta full stop. The sand really is a deep orange-red, the bay is wide and open, the water shelves gently for a long way, and the hills behind it are terraced fields rather than hotels. There is one café, a few sunbed operators in summer, and not much else. That is the point.
Where it is
Ramla sits on the north coast of Gozo below the villages of Xagħra and Nadur. From Victoria it is about 15 minutes by car, and a bus runs from the capital to the top of the bay in season. If you are cycling, the descent from Xagħra is a joy and the climb back is the reason eBikes exist. The road ends at a small car park and a short walk brings you to the sand.
The beach
The sand is soft, the water is clear and shallow, and the swimming is easy in calm conditions. The bay faces north, so a north-westerly wind brings waves and a red flag, and you should respect it: the currents at Ramla are real when the sea is up. On a calm day it is one of the safest and most pleasant swims in the islands, and small children are happy here.
There are toilets, a kiosk, and umbrella and sunbed hire from roughly May to October. Bring your own shade if you want to sit away from the hire zone. The far ends of the beach are quieter.
Calypso’s Cave
High on the cliff on the western side of the bay is Calypso’s Cave, which local legend says is the cave where the nymph Calypso kept Odysseus for seven years in Homer’s Odyssey. The cave itself has been closed for safety reasons for years, but the viewpoint above it is open and gives the classic photo of the bay: the red crescent, the turquoise shallows and the green valley behind. Drive or walk up from Xagħra.
Roman remains and the sandbar
Under the sand at the back of the beach lie the remains of a Roman villa, found in the early 20th century and reburied to protect them. Out in the bay, a submerged wall built by the Knights of St John to wreck enemy boats can still be seen from above on a clear day. Neither is spectacular, but both explain why this bay has mattered for two thousand years.
When to go
- Summer. Arrive before 10 or after 4. The car park fills and the sand fills with it.
- Spring and autumn. The best months. Warm water, no crowds, and the valley is green.
- Winter. The beach is empty, the waves are big and the walk along the sand in a coat is one of the finest things to do in Gozo in January.
Combine it with
Ramla pairs naturally with Ġgantija Temples in Xagħra, ten minutes away, and with lunch in Nadur. Our things to do in Gozo guide fits it into a full day, and our best beaches guide compares it with the rest.
