Comino is the tiny island between Malta and Gozo, home to a handful of permanent residents, one hotel and the Blue Lagoon, a shallow channel of sand-bottomed water between Comino and the islet of Cominotto that glows an unreal turquoise in the sun. It is the image on every Malta poster, and in summer it is also one of the most crowded places in the country. Both things are true, and with a little planning you can have the first without the second.
Where it is and how to get there
Comino sits in the channel between the two main islands. There are three ways to reach it.
- From Ċirkewwa, Malta. Small ferries and tour boats leave from the harbour next to the Gozo ferry terminal throughout the day in season. This is the busiest route.
- From Mġarr or Ħondoq, Gozo. Shorter crossings, smaller boats and generally quieter departures. If you are staying on Gozo this is the obvious choice, and it is the one we use.
- Day cruises from Sliema, Bugibba or Valletta. Longer trips that combine the lagoon with the north coast caves and sometimes Gozo. Good value if you want a full day on the water and are happy to share it with a boatload of people.
There is no car access and no ferry that takes vehicles. Once on the island you walk.
When to go
This is the part that matters. The Blue Lagoon in July and August between eleven and four is elbow-to-elbow. The same lagoon at nine in the morning in June, or at five in the afternoon in September, is close to the picture you had in your head.
- Best months. May, June, September and early October. The water is warm, the light is good and the crowds are thinner.
- Best times. The first boats of the morning or the last couple of hours of the afternoon. Tour groups tend to arrive mid-morning and leave mid-afternoon.
- Avoid. Weekends in July and August, and any day with a strong north-westerly wind, when the crossing is rough and the lagoon loses its calm.
Recent seasons have brought stricter management of the lagoon area, including limits on deckchairs and kiosks. Rules change year to year, so check the latest before you go.
What it is actually like
There is very little sand. The lagoon is mostly rock at the edges, with a small sandy patch that fills fast. Most people swim off the rocks, from the boats or on the Cominotto side. The water is shallow, clear and calm in good weather, and the snorkelling around the edges is decent.
Beyond the lagoon, Comino is worth exploring. Walk to St Mary’s Tower, the 17th-century watchtower on the cliff, for the best view of the lagoon from above. Santa Marija Bay on the north side has a small sandy beach, tamarisk trees and a fraction of the people. Crystal Lagoon, just around the point, is only reachable by boat or a swim and is where the tour boats stop for a jump into deep water.
What to bring
- Water and food. Kiosks exist in season but they are basic and expensive. Bring what you need.
- Shade. There is almost none. An umbrella or a light shelter makes a long day possible.
- Reef shoes. The rocks are sharp and the sea urchins are real.
- Snorkel and mask. The visibility is the whole point.
- Cash. Boats and kiosks do not always take cards.
- A bag for rubbish. Comino is a nature reserve. Take everything back with you.
Boat trip or independent?
If you want to swim, sunbathe and leave, take one of the small ferries and go independently. If you want to see the caves on the Comino coast, jump off a boat into Crystal Lagoon and not think about timetables, a half-day or full-day boat trip is better. From Gozo, several small operators run private and small-group trips that can time the lagoon for the quieter hours. It costs more and is worth it.
Make it part of a longer day
The Blue Lagoon pairs well with Gozo. Take an early boat from Malta to Comino, then a boat on to Mġarr, spend the afternoon in Victoria and Dwejra, and take a ferry back in the evening. Or base yourself on Gozo and visit Comino for a morning. Our things to do in Gozo guide covers the rest of the day, and the 3-day Malta itinerary shows how it fits into a short trip.
